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Trelissick, standing on a promontory at the head of the Fal estuary, is a 1750′s house surrounded by parkland and a 20th Century garden. The 375 acres of parkland offer truly extensive walking trails and absolutely stunning waterside views.

The gardens comprise mainly woodland with an extensive collection of camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas, photinia and hydrangeas.  At its heart is a relatively small area of lawn and herbaceous planting, but nonetheless full of vivid colour and interest.  A new orchard, featuring local varieties, was planted recently, and there is also a “sensory garden” near the entrance and ubiquitous shop.  However, this is perhaps a garden where size, rather than interest, is its main claim to fame. (The house isn’t open to visitors.)

Trebah, near Falmouth, manages to achieve an entirely different feel.  The main garden runs down a valley, leading down from the house to a secluded beach on the Helford river.  The plantings are truly varied, and very extensive.  Near to the house are mainly Mediterranean plants, leading succssively past the stumpery (really a fernery) and cascade, “bamboozle”, gunnera passage (where you can walk under their giant leaves), rhododendron valley, various ponds, the hydrangea valley, before arriving at the little beach at Polgwiddon Cove where they even offer complimentary loan of bucket and spade, in case you’ve forgotten yours (well, I did say it was a busman’s holiday ).

Trebah – bronze fountain | Hydrangeas beside Mallard Pond
(Click To Enlarge)

(If you’re interested, I’ve posted some more photos on Flickr and our Facebook page.)

There's life in this this old oak yet!

As some of our readers may be aware, most local planning authorities in the UK require that planning applications address the retention of existing trees on and around the site.  There is a British Standard BS5837:2005 “Trees in Relation to Construction – Recommendations” which covers such things as surveying the existing trees and ensuring retained trees are protected from damage during construction works.

A new edition of BS5837:2012 “Trees in relation to Design, Demolition & Construction – Recommendations” comes into effect at the end of April, and supersedes the 2005 edition.  This includes some significant changes, to reflect the perceived importance of trees in climate change adaptation as well as current practices and building regulations.

Some key changes include:

• soil assessment is considered necessary at the conceptual design stage;
• provisions added to address new planting design;
• it is no longer permitted to displace root protection areas by up to 20%, making tree constraints much less flexible;
• additional limitations on hard surfacing allowed near trees.

There are other changes, too.  Taken as a whole, it seems that getting planning permission for projects where there are existing trees will become more complex right from the design stage.  As such, it’s unlikely to be welcomed by developers, given the continued depressed state of housebuilding in the UK.  (However, it is worth remembering the recommendations apply equally to projects that don’t require planning permission.)

As landscape and garden design professionals, we’re ideally placed to help with the design of sites with trees.

The key to attracting wildlife into our gardens is the use of native plant species, rather than the exotic ones we see at our local garden centre from as far afield as China, the Himalayas, South Africa and the Americas.  Attractive though they may be, they don’t do a lot for our native fauna.

Thankfully, there are plenty of native plants to choose from.  If your garden is big enough, an oak tree can support nearly 300 species of insects (plus up to 150 species of mites).  Willow, birch, hawthorn and blackthorn are the next highest ranking, so a traditional mixed hawthorn and blackthorn hedge, with the occasional elder, alder buckthorn and hazel mixed in, is a great habitat – and the haw berries and sloes will feed the birds well beyond Christmas.  Other small trees and shrubs you could consider include crab apple, wayfaring tree and guilder rose.

Herbaceous plants are perhaps more of a challenge.  A weed is often defined as simply a plant growing where we don’t want it, and that certainly applies when designing a wildlife planting.  Some of my favourite natives for the garden include ox-eye daisies, bisort (Polygonium bisorta) – which is also useful for its foliage, angelica (very structural), foxgloves, fennel, harebells (Campanula rotundifolia) and giant bellflowers (Campanula latifolia), as well as native bluebells. The daffodil is a native, too.

Nettles and thistles are ideal for butterflies, but if you’re worried your garden will end up looking like a collection of weeds, how about a wildflower meadow?  A strip of long grass, cut only once a year to encourage flowers to seed, can provide a miniature wildlife corridor to connect separate areas of native planting.  Wildflower meadows have a reputation of being problematic, but one of the easiest techniques is to simply strip off the top 2 inches of topsoil and lay wildflower turf.  (You can see some photos of a project where we did this on our Facebook page.)

Even if you only have a tiny, paved courtyard, you could still make your own “insect hotel”!

........you could consider an Insect Hotel

Whatever you choose to do, by including some wildlife-friendly areas in your garden you will be making your own unique contribution to our wildlife.  You could even enter The Big Wildlife Garden competition organized by the RHS and Wildlife Trusts – see  http://www.bigwildlifegarden.org.uk/wildlife-garden-competition.

It’s the formation of ice crystals, which rupture the plant’s cell walls, that causes frost damage.  Some plants are not at all hardy, whilst others are hardy to varying extents.  A plant’s ability to withstand freezing temperatures derives from its physiology and acclimatization.  Hardy plants use certain “tricks” to help withstand frost, including:

• strengthened cell walls;
• desiccation: they lower the water content in the cells during the winter (ice in the spaces between cells is much less of a problem for a plant);
• natural anti-freeze: they manufacture chemicals inside their cells that inhibit freezing.

Importantly, hardy plants generally deploy these survival techniques as a reaction to shortened daylight hours and lower temperatures.  This process takes time (which is why locally grown stock is hardier than plants imported from somewhere warmer).  New growth is more susceptible as the cell walls are thinner and, by implication, growth means warmth and so less time for acclimatization.

Geranium "Jolly Bee", Aster Lutetia and Erygeron Karvinskianus in 9cm pots, waiting to be planted.

Last winter was characterized by some very severe frosts – down to -15ºC here in south Wiltshire – and the frosts came in late November, which is early for such severe frost.  It was the combination of (early) timing, and severity, which was to blame for the damage.  The cold weather also lasted for a considerable time – several weeks – which allowed the frost to penetrate deep into the ground, reaching roots that would normally remain frost-free.

And what about soil water content?  Well, it is certainly true that wet soil will lose heat much more quickly than dry soil, and so will allow a frost to penetrate deeply.

OK, enough science – is it too late to plant?  No, it isn’t.  In fact, as long as the plants are sufficiently mature (not just new growth) and have been properly acclimatized, there is no scientific reason why you shouldn’t be able to plant all year round (as long as the ground isn’t frozen solid!).  As they start to go into dormancy, plants are less likely to suffer from the “shock” of transplanting, and there’s still plenty of warmth in the ground at the moment for the roots to get established.  Another great advantage is that autumn transplants are much less likely to suffer from drought.  Of course, it does all still rely on adequate soil preparation, but that’s another story.

But, and here’s the catch, how do you know if your new plant purchases are acclimatized? Perhaps they arrived on a lorry from the continent only yesterday!  (And that little locally propagated 9 cm pot may be much cheaper than a 2 litre pot, but is the plant mature enough to survive a sharp frost? )  The one thing I certainly wouldn’t do now is pot on from 9 cm to 2 litre, as the pot will be much more susceptible to frost than a plant in the ground, and it’s quite likely to put on a growing spurt that just won’t be mature enough to survive weeks of snow and ice.

........fresh from Italy?

But if you’ve prepared the ground well, then I’d say “go for it!“.   (And as for what caused the losses in the Warwickshire garden?  Well, my money is on plants newly arrived from northern Italy.)

If you live in the south of England you might have paid a visit to the gardens at Exbury, in the New Forest.  It’s perhaps best known for its trees and shrubs, especially rhododendrons, azaleas, camellias and acers, but there is a lot more besides – last year I actually bought a season ticket.  With so much on offer, the herbaceous borders next to the house are easily overlooked, but I think they’re really quite special.  Here is just one example.

Herbaceous border at Exbury

There are some glorious hot summer colours here, with tall architectural elements adding another dimension.  Its a sandy acid soil, and most of these plants will thrive best in well drained, sunny conditions.

Masses of vibrant yellow and orange lilies fill the foreground, including the bright orange Lilium “Brunello”.  The sword-like leaves and upright trumpet shaped flowers of the lilies contrast with the softer clusters of green leaves and bright yellow-green bracts of Euphorbia cornigera “Goldener Turm” – all interspersed with the tall, thin, spear-like stems of Pennesetum macrourum, whose thickened seed heads sway above the dense yellows and oranges and serve to lighten and enliven the whole effect.

Lilium "Brunello"

Euphorbia cornigera "Goldener Turm"

Echinacea purpurea "Magnus"

Helenium "Moorheim Beauty"

Cephalaria gigantea

In the middle distance the dark copper-red flowers of Helenium “Moerheim Beauty” combine well with the dark-centred pink daisy Echinacea purpurea “Magnus”, and a haze of round white Cephalaria gigantea lightens and enlivens the show, just as the Penesetum does.

In my view, an interesting example of how different plant structures and form combine to create something that is greater than the sum of the parts – without the Penesetum and Caphalaria, this would appear quite different – heavy and static.

PS Sorry about the random photo arrangement – WordPress has defeated me on this occasion!

Waterperry Gardens - spring border

This is a quite superb scene I snapped at Waterperry Gardens in Oxfordshire last year.  To be fair I photographed it in mid May, but spring is earlier this year so I’d venture a guess it’s already looking almost as good.

Erysimum "Bowle's Mauve"

Erysimum “Bowle’s Mauve” is a short-lived mini-shrub forming a domed bush with greyish leaves.  It’s ideal for the front of the border, and also grows well in gravel gardens and even in old walls.  The purple flowers appear through most of the year, most profusely in spring and early summer.

Cynara cardunculus (Cardoon)

Cynara cardunculus has wonderfully architectural silvery grey, deeply divided leaves, usually spiny, and up to 1.2m long at the base of the plant.  It bears numerous thistle-like flowers, that emerge from a scaly head.  Ideal for the back of the border, it’s at its best in late spring when the leaves are young.  One of my favourites!

Tulipa "Bleu Aimable"

Tulipa “Bleu Aimable” is an old variety dating back to 1916,  they are a very long lasting tulip with slightly smaller heads of silvery lavender mauve. Late April and early May flowering.

Kerria japonica "Pleniflora"

Kerria japonica “Pleniflora”  is a vigorous, deciduous spring flowering shrub that will grow almost anywhere and soon develops into a thicket of tall graceful stems with suckers growing from the creeping roots.  Its double, yellow flowers burst out from mid to late spring and are beautifully surrounded by bright green, oval leaves. A garden classic.

Berberis thunbergii "Aurea"

Berberis thunbergii “Aurea”  This deciduous shrub, with yellow-green leaves, gives a striking display of fiery orange and red tints and red fruits.

Here are a few suggestions for companion planting:

• Euphorbia  myrsinites -  yellow-green bracts.
• Allium  giganteum – round purple flowers in spring.
• Crambe maritima – silvery grey, curly leaves,  suited to the front of the border
• Delphinium “Alice Artindale” – tall thin spikes of blue-purple flowers.
• Tulipa “Elegant Lady” – creamy yellow flowers in late spring.

Waterperry Gardens is near Wheatley, a couple of miles outside Oxford, towards London on the A40, and is open daily 10am – 5.30pm.

Duncan Heather

Elspeth Briscoe

My Garden School is the world’s first online school for gardeners, and it went live yesterday 3rd April 2011.  A whole host of short courses are available, and – perhaps this is what’s so special – course assignments are actually marked by the tutors, so you get real feedback from the experts.  Check back as the year progresses, as more courses are being added all the time.

MyGardenSchool Introduction from MyGardenSchool on Vimeo.

I can’t help thinking this is a really great idea. After all, how else could you access expert tuition wherever you are in the world? And you can even ask specific questions and get expert replies, too.

….and Good Luck to Duncan and Elspeth

In summer this border is dominated by the bright yellow-green foliage of the Rubus cockburnianus “Golden Vale” and the variegated Cornus sericea “White Gold”, but it makes its biggest impression in winter, when the contrasting colours are quite striking.

Cornus sericea “White Gold”, Rubus cockburnianus “Golden Vale”, Ophiopogon planiscapus “Nigrescens”, and Calluna vulgaris “Robert Chapman”.

Vivid stem colouration provides great contrast even in winter

Cornus sericea

Rubus cockburnianus

Rubus cockburnianus “Golden Vale” is a handsome and prickly briar with bright golden leaves all summer and in winter, dazzling, chalky white arching stems. The lovely golden yellow foliage makes this an eye-catching ornamental plant in the summer and the white stems give fantastic winter interest.

Ophiopogon planiscapus

Ophiopogon planiscapus “Nigrescens” is an evergreen perennial with tufts of glistening strap-like leaves that are closer to black than almost any other plant. The small white or lilac flowers are followed by dark green berries. Makes an excellent foil for contrasting flowers and foliage.

Calluna vulgaris

Calluna vulgaris “Robert Chapman” Densely formed low-growing evergreen – a spreading variant of our native Scotch heather. Foliage is golden in spring, turning to orange, then red in winter, with tiny purple flowers in late summer and autumn.
 
 
 
 
This is just one example, from the Sir Harold Hillier Garden near Romsey, Hampshire, which illustrates how it is possible to achieve year-round interest. There are lots of other plants you could consider, and don’t forget that plants like sedums and Lunaria (Honesty) – with their interesting seedheads that survive all winter – are also really useful.

With autumn colours spreading through woodlands, and some trees and shrubs already loosing their leaves, you might be forgiven for thinking there’s not much interest left in the garden.  But it shouldn’t be the case.  In fact autumn (September to November) can be one of the best seasons for garden interest.  I snapped this picture at the Knoll Gardens near Wimborne, Dorset, in mid October.

Knoll Gardens, Wimborne

Vibrant reds of Persicaria  amplexicaulis “Taurus” and Sedum “Herbstfreude”, and yellow Rudbeckia  fulgida “Deamii”, with more subtle hints of lilac Aster laevis “Calliope”, make this autumn planting as lively as any summer border.  Architectural grass, Miscanthus sinensis “Malpartus”, which blooms in early September, helps to give structure.

Rudbeckia fulgida Dreamii

Sedum Herbstfreude

Rudbeckia  fulgida “Deamii” produces bright yellow flowers from August to October, and works particularly well in bold drifts.  This one grows to around waist – chest height, although others are taller.

The succulent leuttice-green leaves of Sedum “Herbstfreude” are topped with salmon-pink flower-heads in summer that mature to pinkish-bronze, then coppery-red, in autumn. The dried flower heads continue to provide structure and colour through winter, too.

Although it was perhaps past its best when I took these photos, Aster laevis “Calliope”  is a bushy, clump-forming  perennial with dark green leaves and characteristic purple-black stems, producing pale lilac-blue flowers from late summer to mid-autumn.

Aster laevis Calliope

Persicaria amplexicaulis Taurus

Persicaria amplexicaulis is one of my favourites.  “Taurus” produces long tapers clustered with tiny, fluffy, deep crimson flowers from mid summer until the first frosts. This vigorous perennial has handsome foliage and quickly makes dense groundcover. Planted in bold swathes, it adds vertical interest in the border right through till late autumn.  Persicaria really needs moist soil, and all these plants will tolerate partial shade.

Knoll Gardens are particularly good in Autumn, and well worth a visit for some inspiration.  They also have a garden centre where you can buy many of the plants seen in the gardens.  Ornamental grasses are a particular speciality.